HGKWW ::: Natural Hair in the Workplace

I was talking to my mom the other day about how I try to be careful about what hairstyles I wear to work. The short conversation we had inspired me to want to write a post on how certain natural looks are received in the workplace. But first, I was curious about my readers' experiences...

Do you ever feel uncomfortable wearing your hair in all of its glorious kinkiness at work?

Do you think certain styles aren't appropriate?

Has anyone (supervisor, manager, etc.) ever suggested you change your hair? If so, how did you handle it? If not, how would you handle it?

How big is too big when it comes to styling your hair?

Which styles do you feel work? Which do you think don't make the cut for work?

Do you feel obligated to straighten your hair for work?

Do co-workers ever make comments about your hair, whether positive or negative?

Please feel free to share your thoughts. This will probably develop into a series of posts & I might even throw in some quotes from your feedback...

Drop a comment or email me at jagray4@gmail.com with the subject line: HGKWW

HGKWW ::: Q&A III

Q: I read somewhere that alcohol is bad for my hair. The problem is I see it in every hair product when I check the ingredients. Avoiding alcohol is pretty much impossible, so what should I do?!

A: My issue with a lot of the information you find about hair care is that people don't give a complete breakdown of the facts. You do not have to completely avoid alcohol when buying hair products. Why? Because not ALL alcohols are bad for your hair.

Here are the alcohols that you need to avoid:

• Menthanol
• Ethanol
• Alcohol Denat
• Isopropyl Alcohol
• Propanol
• SDA40
• Specially Denaturated Alcohol
  These guys can dry the hair & leave it looking frizzy.

And believe it or not...there are alcohols that are good for your hair:

• Acetyl Alcohol
• Cetyl Alcohol
• Lanolin Alcohol
• Lauryl Alcohol
• Stearic Acid
• Stearyl Alcohol
• Sterol Alcohol
  These are capable of softening and conditioning the hair.

So you can breathe!!!! Not all alcohols are out to get you!!!! Of course, everyone's hair is different & reacts to products differently, but you can use this as a guide to put you in the right direction.

HGKWW ::: Q&A II

Q: What can I do to minimize how tangled my hair gets whenever I wash it?!

A. Detangling hair can be a very frustrating process. But the best way to make detangling less of a hassle is to minimize the amount of tangling that happens in the FIRST place! Here are a few simple tips.

• Wash your hair in SECTIONS.  You will not regret it. Depending on the thickness & length of your hair, separating it into 4-6 sections should be sufficient. I usually braid or twist sections that I am not working with at the moment. Honestly, whenever I do anything with my hair, I put it into sections. It makes the hair so much more manageable.
• Detangle while conditioning. Use a shower comb or a medium to wide toothed comb to detangle the hair after applying conditioner to wet hair. Conditioner helps make the hair easier to work with.
• Work from the ends to the roots. Nothing hurts my soul more than seeing someone quickly drag a comb from their roots all the way to the ends of their hair. You are tearing your hair out. Ripping it. If you take a moment, you will HEAR the hair breaking as your comb goes through it. Take your time. Start at the ends of the hair and work your way up to the roots until you are able to carefully comb through that sections of hair. 
• Use a deep conditioner w/ silicones or natural oils. Let it sit in your hair for at least 20 minutes. If you have a hooded dryer, cover the hair with a shower cap and sit underneath the dryer while you are conditioning. The silicones and oils in the deep conditioner will help the comb glide through your hair.
•  Detangle w/ a natural oil before washing. Only a little bit of oil needs to be applied to each section of the hair. Because the hair is still dry, work tangles out with your fingers. Using a comb on dry hair is BEGGING for breakage. 
• & last..........................BE PATIENT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Put It On Repeat ~ Janelle Monae "You Are My Everything"

I love this song.

It's 4 or 5 years old...but it feels brand new every time. Janelle's voice is simply golden.

Janelle Monae "You Are My Everything"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGnp4D8mzSw

HGKWW :: Q&A I

Q: What's the point of using a clarifying a shampoo right before you deep condition? Can you clarify at the conditioner stage instead?

A: So I'm assuming your logic is "Why do all of that cleansing to remove product build-up just to put more product on it?!!!!" Think of the clarifying shampoo as clearing the way for the conditioner so it can better penetrate the hair shaft. The shampoo knocks all of the old product and dirt and oil away so there is no interference when the conditioner tries to do its thing. The conditioner is necessary directly after to restore any goodies the shampoo may have stripped away in addition to the gunk you actually wanted to remove from your hair. It also remedies the dryness experienced after shampooing. If you think the clarifying shampoo may be too drying on your hair, yes, there are clarifying conditioners available. Do note that the drying effect is why I recommend only applying the shampoo to the scalp & roots and not the entire length of the hair.

HGKWW ::: Dry Cleansing & Conditioning

Soooooooooo

I tried something new recently & it was amazing. I was actually being lazy (don't be like me!!!) & then after my great results, I did some google'n just to find out that other people already knew about this.

Ok, Jess. What the crapizzle did you do?!!!!!!

I put conditioner in my hair while it was still dry. & it was good.

I had just shampoo'd my hair a few days before, but I'd been having a dryspell & decided to co-wash & deep condition as an attempt to get my moisture balance back in check. However, I was being drawn into this episode of "Dr. G, Medical Examiner" & didn't want to be away from the TV too long...and behold, my lazy behind idea.

From a few natural hair forums, I discovered that people refer to shampooing and conditioning the hair when it is dry as "dry cleansing" and "dry conditioning," respectively.

Here is my little version of both processes:

Dry Cleansing (shampoo)

• Section hair
• Work the shampoo only on to the scalp and near roots of the hair (Shampoo is drying & I prefer to only apply it to the base of my hair follicles so it won't weaken my ends)
• Rinse out each section.
• Why this rocks?
• Avoid drying length of hair
• Shampoo can latch on to dirt and oils without interference of water
• Helps focus on getting scalp cleaner, especially for those with scalp issues---buildup, dry scalp, flakes

Dry Conditioning (conditioner)

• Section hair
• Work conditioner thoroughly into each section.
• Detangle (carefully) with shower comb.
• Rinse out each section after at least 10 minutes.
• Why this rocks?
• Less detangling to do without the initial rinse of hair before adding
• Less shrinkage!!!!!!!!

As for the dry cleansing, that may take a little longer than traditional shampooing since you are focusing on the scalp. Other than that, this new discovery has changed my life. Really. Especially being able to condition and deep condition without the initial rinse. It is just great. I recommend you give it a whirl & let me know how it goes for you!!!

HGKWW ::: This Is Not the Hair Bible.

Although I will not budge about some of the things I tell you (MOISTURIZE EVERY DAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!), some things are open to adjustment. These are my suggestions to point you in the right direction. The Hair Police (they exist...don't moisturize & see what happens...) will not come find you and punish you for altering something so that it works best for you.


That is all. Keep the questions coming =)

HGKWW ::: What is CO-WASHING?

WHAT IS CO-WASHING?!!!!!

You simply wash your hair with conditioner. That's it.

Now...some people might fight me on this...but...

I do not believe that co-washing should be a complete substitute for washing your hair with shampoo. Shampoo is designed to remove dirt and product buildup in ways that conditioner is not. If you do wish to join the folks who swear by co-washing and have abandoned shampoo, I strongly recommend using a CLARIFYING SHAMPOO once every month or two to rid your hair of the buildup from your conditioner.

What are the BENEFITS of Co-washing?

One. Conditioner does not dry your hair like shampoo. It leaves it feeling soft and moisturized.
Two. The detangling process goes so much smoother!
Three. For my transitioning ladies, it helps make blending new growth with relaxed ends a little easier.

Um...so how do I do it?

You use your conditioner the same way you would use your shampoo. That really is all there is to it. Section your hair. Slather (I just like that word) each section with conditioner. Work it in. Detangle w/ your shower comb. Let it rest for a couple minutes. Rinse.

And how often is this supposed to happen?

Because co-washing does not result in as much drying of the hair and does not strip down the follicles, some people will do it daily. I do not actually co-wash as often in the colder months because it is good to do as a prep for the wet-and-go hairstyles I ONLY do in warm weather (DO NOT WET-AND-GO IN COLD WEATHER!!!). Co-washing several times a week helps protect and revive my hair in its wet state between my regular shampoos. Depending on my time schedule, I will try to co-wash at least once a week when it is cold out.

Which conditioners are best for co-washing?

Some easy-on-the-pocket options? Mane-and-Tail, Suave Humectant, Suave Tropical Coconut, Herbal Essences, Frutis Garnier, Kinky-Curly Knot Today

What if it is not quite working out for me...should I keep trying?

You can experiment with different conditioners, but honestly, co-washing simply may not be the thing for you---and that's perfectly fine! I do recommend giving it a try, though!



HGKWW ::: Let's Be Clear...

Shampoo is shampoo. It all gets your hair perfectly clean.....right?

Wrong.

There's clean and then there's squeaky clean.

Now WARNING: To all of you who like to go overboard & make a good thing bad...

You do not want your hair to be "squeaky" clean every time that you wash it. You will eventually risk stripping your hair of its nutrients and weakening it leading to BREAKAGE. So please do not take what I say & run away with it...at least, not too far. Do we have an understanding here? Great.

We have our lovely moisturizing and nourishing and replenishing and repairing and revitalizing shampoos. But the problem is, many of these shampoos can leave some residue behind. Yes, I know. You are looking at me crazy because how can something that is supposed to clean your hair get it dirty, too?! All of the ingredients put in shampoos used to moisturize and nourish and replenish and repair and revitalize your hair can cause buildup over time. This is why you need to invest in a CLARIFYING SHAMPOO.

Clarifying shampoo gets rid of any leftover gunk from other shampoos and conditioners. It also clears the way for nutrients to better penetrate the hair shaft when moisturizing and conditioning. People who have trouble with scalp buildup (meee!!!) will benefit from having a fresh foundation. Your hair will have that squeaky clean feeling and should even gain some shine!

I don't recommend doing this more than twice a month. Of course, you should adjust your usage depending on how much product (mouses, gels, cream, leave-ins, etc.) you've been using in your hair. I usually focus on the roots and scalp area and squeeze the shampoo through my hair towards the ends once I am about to rinse it out. (Remember shampoo can be drying on the ends of the hair!) And don't forget to still condition your hair after using your clarifying shampoo!

Clarifying shampoos to check out:

Suave Daily Clarifying Shampoo

Pantene Pro-V Purify Shampoo

V05 Clarifying Shampoo

Aubrey Organics Green Tea Clarifying Shampoo

HGKWW ::: Be Prepared!!!

I've been asked what items to keep around to make caring for natural hair a little easier...

Some key things you will want to have on hand:

*To protect your hair at night*

Satin scarf or bonnet

Satin pillowcases

*For detangling & combing*

Medium/wide-toothed seamless comb

Shower comb

*Styling*

Hair pins/clips

Duck bill clips

Rollers/Flexi-rods

Metal-free ponytail holders

*Shampoo & conditioning*

Plastic shower cap (deep conditioning)

Moisturizing shampoo

Clarifying shampoo

Conditioner

Leave-in conditioner

Deep conditioner

*Moisturizing*

Water-based moisturizer

Oil sealant

*Trimming*

Hair shears

*Extras*

Hooded dryer

(If you must) Ceramic flat iron

Heat protectant

*PATIENCE*

Off the top of my head, these are the basics that you need to have in your arsenal. It seems like a lot at first glance...but I promise that it is not & that you probably have most of these things already!

HGKWW ::: The Big Break-Up

I recently talked to a friend who had questions about the amount of breakage she was experiencing while trying to grow her relaxer out to go natural.

She didn't understand why she was losing so much hair and was two seconds from giving up because she thought it had something to do with her new growth ruining her hair.

I told her that she needed to take into account that she was dealing with TWO DIFFERENT TEXTURES in her hair now. She can no longer treat her hair as she would if it was still relaxed; however, she can't simply jump into a natural hair routine either & neglect her chemically treated ends.

So this is a quick run-down of what is going on with the transitioning process & how to minimize breakage.

LINE OF DEMARCATION

The point where your relaxed hair and new growth meet is called the line of demarcation. Here, your hair is very weak and it is where you can expect the most breakage. This is why it is recommended that a touch-up relaxer is done ever 4-6 weeks. The presence of two different textures can cause hair to break more easily.

CONDITION

If there was ever a time for you to really focus on conditioning your hair, THIS IS IT. Keeping the protein and moisture in your hair balanced can prevent breakage, especially when you are transitioning. Of course, your new growth and relaxed ends may need different kinds of product to ensure that this balance is maintained; however, taking the extra time to figure out when to use what products is worth the effort. Go here to read more about balanced hair.

MOISTURIZE

If you keep up with my blog, you are probably tired of hearing this. But I can not stress how important moisturizing your hair is. If you are trying to avoid your hair snapping at the line of demarcation, then preventing it from getting dry is one of the best ways to do it. Find an earlier post on how to properly moisturize hair here.

BLENDING

One thing people are always afraid of is how they will look when they venture away from their usual straight hair styles. You will never find your new niche if you stay in your old one. When transitioning, your focus has to be on blending your two hair textures, NOT making your new growth look like your relaxed ends. This means giving the blow dryer & flat iron a rest and experimenting with braid outs and roller sets and other hair styles done while the hair is still wet. Plus, all of that heat will put stress on the line of demarcation & what are we trying to avoid here? Right. Breakage.

TRIM

I know how hard it can be to let go of length. But you need to pay attention to how your ends are looking so that you know when it is time to trim those relaxed ends. You want to avoid any split ends traveling up the shaft of the hair. I have recently adopted the "Search-and-destroy" method for trimming my hair>>>post coming soon!!!

PROTECT

Wearing protective hairstyles to keep your ends tucked away, wearing a satin scarf or cap at night, and investing in a satin pillowcase or two will help prevent breakage, as well. Put the flat iron DOWN. Unless it is a hooded dryer, try not to do it. In case you missed it before, flat ironing and blow drying yank on the hair and snap! Another tip--combing dry hair is a NO-NO!!! The best time to detangle the hair is during the conditioning process. Run the comb through the hair once the conditioner is in it, starting at the ends of the hair and working your way up--DO NOT EVER COMB YOUR HAIR STRAIGHT THROUGH FROM THE ROOTS ALL THE WAY TO THE ENDS! That is a recipe for extreme breakage.

Many of the things mentioned here are tips that should be used on all hair. Transitioning from relaxed to natural is such a fragile time for hair, though so skimping on any of these things could be asking for extra hardship and possible disaster. If you can get these things down and make them a habit during the transitioning process, once all of the relaxed hair has been removed you will be in great shape for caring for your natural hair.

Once again, I encourage any questions or comments!!! This is a very general post & I can go into more detail on any of these tips. Just ask! I'll do my best to suggest ways to ease your frustrations!